Try to take advantage of the permanent buffs if you buy Dog(s). * Note: Dog is kind of a funny unit, because it gets permanent buffs when you buy animals into an empty slot, but temporary buffs from summons during battle. Tier 1: Horse (buffer), Cricket (tokens). You are looking to add the following to your team each tier: The basis of this team is that you have 1-2 buffers in the back, 0-1 support in the back, and 3 token generators in the front. Honey can be used to add another token, but be aware that you’ll eventually want to sell your Crickets and Spiders, so honey on them is a sunk cost. If you have managed to get a primarily Horse/Cricket team, this lends itself toward an all-out Token Spam strategy based on summoning new animals and buffing them with Horse. You may want to consider buying a Muffin if you’ve bought a Duck or two, to make up for your lack of stats. If you are building a Horse/Cricket team, it’s okay to put honey on a Cricket. You need to buy three animals both turns. Don’t reroll the shop more than once on Turns 1 or 2. The other choices are fine if you have no other choice. There is no perfect way to play the first few turns, but you should try to either go all-out Horse/Cricket, or else grab powerful animals like Ant and Fish for pure stats. Pig – Somewhere between the two priorities. Their only problem is that you can’t combine them once they reach level 3. If your Otter will level up or is leveled up, combine directly from the shop to get the +2/+2 bonus. Don’t sell your Otters too quick - combine them. Although it effectively has 3/2 in stats, the 1 damage to a random enemy often falls flat and is basically useless in Turns 3 and onward. Mosquito – One of my least favorite choices. Since there are only a handful of Tier 1 animals, it’s worth going over them individually. If you must choose between the two, pick the ones that make you Not Lose. There are two priorities in the early game:Īll of the Tier 1 animals lend themselves toward one or the other. This is the time to give out last-second buffs or food (steak, melons) to animals who don’t have them yet. If you have 1 or 2 battles remaining, don’t start making long-term investments like buying Monkeys or partial level ups. Keep an eye on your remaining wins and losses.Chocolate is almost always a buy, unless literally none of your animals will benefit from leveling up.Try to consider this when building your team. Some animals have a great level 2 upgrade, but their level 3 upgrade comes too late to mean anything (like Horse). Some animals are front-loaded in power (like Tiger) and some need to be leveled up once or twice to reach full potential (like Dodo).Should you give an Ant an apple or honey? Usually not, because you’ll want to sell the Ant to make room for something else. Ants are pretty strong in the early game, but their ability is meaningless on Turn 10. Give food only to animals you intend to keep long-term.Buy animals and food that will last a long time. Except for the animals that give permanent buffs each turn (Monkey, Giraffe), the shop is the only way to make your team stronger. If you’re very lucky, the animal could match with the strategy you were building anyway, and give you a big boost. This can allow you to pick up a powerful animal one or two turns before you would ordinarily be offered it. Whenever you level up an animal, a new animal of (your tier + 1) is offered in the shop.Three Crickets and two Horses are much better than a Level 2 cricket and a half-leveled Horse. It may be better to keep multiple copies of animals on your team rather than combining or leveling them right away.Outside of the first two or three battles, it is increasingly difficult to win on stats alone. Your team should synergize with each other.If you take 2 or 3 losses early on, it gives you less leeway to build a killer combo that will carry you to 10. The first few turns are usually a straight stat contest. Your primary goal in the early game is to not lose any battles.Consider the whole list of purchases before making any move. This is a competitive game, but you are only battling snapshots of other players, not actual live players in real-time. Even a 10-win run will have 2 or 3 defeats. It’s almost impossible to win 10 out of 10 battles. In this guide I will discuss some tips, early game strategies, and late game formations that are usually successful.
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